Israel – Day 4 – Masada and the Dead Sea

Well we have done it!  The Red, the Dead and the Med.  That is we have now swum in the Red Sea (swimming with the dolphins), the Dead Sea, and the Mediterranean Sea (when we were in Dubrovnik in Croatia). 

Today began with an 8 am start on to the bus and away to the Dead Sea and Masada, via views of Jericho which we were told is the oldest city on earth, and then the location of the Dead Sea scrolls in beautiful red hills. 

Masada is located on top of a mountainous plateau which stands completely alone on the shores of the Dead Sea, and has breath taking views.  Despite this, it stands at just 33 metres above sea level! (450 metres above the Dead Sea). 

 It was originally a palace for King Herod, and then was most famous for the last stand of the Jewish Zealots over 2,000 years ago.  They led a revolt against the Romans, but in the end they chose death over slavery, leading to the destruction of the Kingdom of Judea. 

You drive along the shores of the Dead Sea looking at sink holes appearing as the sea recedes

and then to a visitors centre where you catch a cable car to the top of the mountain.  You can take the twisting Snake Path which winds its way to the top, but we didn’t have time (or the energy) to do that today.

 

Some of the buildings have been reconstructed, and you can walk around looking at the different buildings including a couple of bath houses, a swimming pool, towers, warehouses, and then King Herod’s pleasure palace which was right at the end, and it was very secluded.

According to the brochure, the Roman siege camps, fortifications and the assault ramp built by Jewish slaves at the lowest part of the plateau constitute the most complete surviving ancient Roman siege system in the world.

We had lunch in the visitors centre and then it was off to swim in the Dead Sea.  Most of us put our fingers into the water, and then tasted the water, and it is so salty it almost burns.  There were lots of signs up saying not to drink the water, not to put your head under, and not to splash.  They warned us not to touch your eyes with wet fingers as it will burn. 

It is a very strange experience to walk into the water, and then just float without even trying.  It is almost difficult to put your legs straight down as they want to spring back up to the surface all the time.  We floated around for a while and then went to the shore to smear grey/black mud all over ourselves.  It was like very wet play dough, and when you put it onto yourself it was a bit gritty.  It was very funny watching the group help each other smother themselves in mud.  We stood under very forceful showers on the shore and washed the mud off, before having a proper shower and making our way back to the bus at 3.30pm.

Then it was a 90 minute bus ride back to the hotel where we changed into respectable attire (this was skirts for the women, and pants and jackets for the men) to walk to the Great Synagogue of Jerusalem.  Men were downstairs and the women were upstairs in the gallery, just like in the old picture theatres.  People continue to talk during the service, so it was never completely quiet, and upstairs there were a lot of children running along the area at the back of the last row of seats.  We were very lucky as the service included a men’s choir, so it was really beautiful to listen to.

At 7.45 pm we were all split into groups to go to dinner at a Jewish family home. We took a bottle of pomegranate wine as the woman in the wine shop at Masada had insisted this was slightly more classy for Israelis than grape wine.  They did not open it as it is Sabbath and usually using a cork screw constitutes doing work and that is banned, but they did open other wines!  We went with another couple from our tour, and our host family also had their son there, as well as 2 other couples.  It was very interesting to see their customs in terms of the ceremony surrounding the meal with a song welcoming the Sabbath, one thanking the women, and one blessing the wine.  The food was delicious, with several courses including zucchini with a horseradish and garlic sauce, Jerusalem Artichoke soup, and then main consisted of meatballs with figs, chicken, salads, and rice, with apple crumble and fresh dates for desert.  The wife was concerned that she had not cooked enough food, but in the end there was plenty with a huge bowl of fruit salad still left untouched. At the end of the meal they say grace with a prayer, and then it was time to take the taxi back to the hotel.  The taxi was booked for 10.15 pm but it was 11.30 pm by the time we left, and he had been waiting all that time.  He was being paid to wait, but even so, it would not have happened in Australia.